Amazing Bukovina

An enchanted garden – Bukovina


I don’t know what’s going on, but when I enter Bucovina all the clouds in the sky seem to disappear and the sun always rises. It was raining buckets in Iasi when I went to Breaza – Suceava county. Dressed in an urban, corporate outfit. As black as the sky hovering above the city.

Jumping directly into the green.

How much unhappiness can be accumulated between concrete walls? Especially if you are a person who has spent all its youth between the trees? I’ll let you guess.

That’s why  we hit the road for Bukovina, with AC / DC, Deep Purple and Skid Row to the fullest. Nomad rockers with an unbroken spirit.

The mountains are my bones, The rivers are my veins. The forests are my thoughts, And the stars are my dreams.

I wish I could tell you how beautiful Breaza  is. How incredible is the whole area – Breaza, Pârâul Negrei, etc.

But I would probably spoil all the pleasure of discovering this yourself.

Whenever I discover a place that seem so enchanted, I used to say: “here I want to retire when the time comes “. Then I discover another incredibly beautiful place and I say the same thing. Then  I discover another. And  another. This is how great is my country, my dear reader. Don’t look down on it. Love it. Love it as if you were in love with the most beautiful woman in the world.

There is something weird about this rugged purity of our mountains. They are still retaining some kind  of dignity and calm poetry, in spite of the wickedness of people. Crushed, deforested, defiled.

(For all those imbeciles out there: you are cutting the trees but your brats will grow by knowing the forest just in books.

For  all those chavs out there: you are grilling in the woods, leaving hundreds of plastic bottles  behind, but your brats will swallow plastic.)

This parentheses represent the ”secondary effect” after crossing  large parts of the romanian forests that have been razed  to the ground.  And believe me, there are many. Everywhere.  An ecological disaster.

But let’s go back to Breaza  village. There is something in Bucovina and Maramures. Something that the south of the country has lost. It is as if God has come down here and blessed all: people, hills, mountains, forests, cattle.

And now, about the Bucovina village. A couple (paradoxically – from Bucharest) thought of gathering some wooden houses, more than 100 years old, and rebuilding them in a wonderful ensemble called the Bucovina Village (Satul Bucovinean). Tourists can dine here and enjoy traditional dishes, prepared with ingredients from the owner’s farm.

A fairy tale by Petre Ispirescu (a Romanian fairy tales writer). Born to life in our century. A wonderful place and the terrible silence interrupted now and then by the scream of a hungry hawk.

The host is a lady from Bucharest who fell in love with  Bukovina. A very nice lady. She fattened us up with her delicious cooking and baking.

Pan-fried trout with garlic sauce (mujdei )and polenta ( mămăliguţă). Sausages  and homemade pickles. The famous Romanian ”Borș” with meatballs, fat cream and red hot peppers. Fresh milk and butter. Smoked bacon and onion. A bunch of pancakes to put them on top of all these Bukovinian goodies.

Just as I said above, God came down to Bukovina’s heels, and loved this places so much, that he decided not to leave anymore.  You can meet him in the yellow of the dandelions and in the smell of grass after rain. In the sweetness of milk and in the pure glance of the mountain people.

Go to Breaza only if you love the nature and simplicity of villages in northern Romania.

Go there if you want peace and hate crowds and the concrete cities.

Go with respect for the people of the place and humility in front of Bukovina’s forests.

Worship the forests of  fir trees  my  dear traveler  for they are a cathedral  and not just woods – here the Great Light came down and rested its head on the hills, at the shade of fir tree.

Photos here

© Ionela Chiru

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